Finally the time has come to reveal my first experiments with Turkish food. You should think that growing up in Austria, a country which has become a second home to many emigrated Turks, I should be a tad more familiar with the cuisine, but I am not. I have spent years ignoring doner kebab, to be honest, I can't stand the smell and tend to hold my breath when I walk through that part of Vienna's Naschmarkt. When I was pregnant with my second child, I had to walk from the train station to the ad agancy where I worked in Camden and on my way back, I would always walk a side street to avoid the Kebab bar... you get the idea.
I have eaten at a few Turkish restaurants back in Vienna, but it never stuck in my memory, maybe because they just weren't memorable or because I wasn't the foodie I am today and still walking around with my eyes closed when it came to exploring any cuisines that sounded more foreign than Italian or Chinese. Since living in London, I have become more aware, I guess, and more curious - but Turkish food doesn't feature much here compared to other, more exotic temptations.
For the past few weeks, my couch table has been dominated by a brilliant new tome: "turquoise" by Greg and Lucy Malouf. I am not sure how to classify this book as it is so much more than yet another cookery book - it has tons of recipes, yes, and very tempting ones at that, but also takes you on beautiful journey of discovery. History, architecture, people - you sort of want to jump in there, despite the fact that their whole journey happened in the winter time, so no glossy pictures of tourists lined up like sardines in a tin, roasting on the (no doubt beautiful) beaches, but snapshots of the real people, the real life. No make-up artists or set preppers either. I like that. A lot.
With regards to the food, I'll repeat that I have had virtually no exposure to Turkish food, so I am not one to judge the book by its authenticity. But so far, everything I have made out of it - and believe me, there are still dozens of earmarked pages to go through - was absolutely brilliant. The first time I cooked from it, I decided that rather than spending hours devising a perfect course of dishes from amuse-bouche through to coffees, I would just cook whatever took my fancy and we'd consume it, tapas-style, all at the same time.
This "spoon salad" basically combines all the flavours of a gazpacho: cucumbers, onion, beautifully vine-ripened tomatoes, red peppers, chilli, fresh herbs and some Turkish condiments. As I haven't made it to a Middle Eastern deli yet, I had to play around a little: where "hot Turkish red pepper paste" was required, I used harissa (I was slightly suspicious when I bought a Sainsbury's own-brand, but was pleasantly surprised by the "fruitiness" of it and the fact that it seemed to contain red peppers, which made it perfect for the occasion), I used sherry vinegar instead of red wine vinegar and I didn't have any pomegranate molasses, so just skipped that part... I still very much liked the result, it's a beautifully versatile dish located somewhere between a salad, a dip and a salsa that was equally delicious eaten on its own with some flatbread as well as accompanying a pistachio-crumbed chicken breast (recipe to follow).
Definitely a keeper. And I know I'm sometimes obsessed with authenticity and I wouldn't be seen dead in most Mexican restaurants in Europe or Austrian eateries here, just because it doesn't taste like "home", but if anyone were to tell me that the recipes from turquoise are not authentic, I'll respond that I couldn't care less because they taste pretty darn amazing and that's certainly good enough for me.
Recent Comments