I feel really bad for not writing this up earlier... even though I had the loveliest time imagineable with my friend Pille in Edinburgh! It was actually a post on The Foodie List that reminded me again, as Edinburgh has just been named the "most culinary city" outside London in the recently published Harden's Guide of UK restaurants.
As much as Pille complains about people thinking the Scottish capital is a culinary wasteland, it was certainly not the perceived lack of a foodie scene that had kept me from going earlier, it was more the prospect for spending a weekend in the miserable rain that can befall the North, and until now, we had always opted for sunnier climes when it came to choosing a destination for a weekend abroad. But foodblogging friends are enough reason to forget about the weather for once!
I have already published great memories of a dinner at the fabulous Witchery by the Castle, but there are plenty more recommendations to share with you:
From the airport, we headed straight to Elephant House - a quirky old coffee and tea house reminding me very much of my student days. It was on one of these old and beaten wooden tables apparently that JK Rowling wrote her first Harry Potter books - by now she can afford a study and heating in her own patch, so don't count on meeting her there, but do go for nicely brewed coffee, excellent teas served in massive cups, good value snacks and the buzz that comes with a coffee shop located in a university town...
It was that same evening that we hooked up with Melissa of Traveller's Lunchbox and met at Urban Angel for an "ethical" dinner - this sort of restaurant/deli, where ingredients are local, organic, free-range and a fair price is being paid to the suppliers, is so hard to find in the UK. We started off with some "tapas" to share (grilled halloumi with tomato salsa, vegetarian haggis pakora with cucumber raita and a pork belly with pear chutney, the latter unfortunately not as melt-in-the-mouth as it could have been) before proceeding to an excellent angus beef burger and tasty spinach gnocci in a gorgonzola & walnut sauce. And although they're not offering gourmet food or an elegant dining
experience, it is a great spot for honest food in a casual environment
- great for breakfast, lunch or a snack in between.
Breakfast the next morning was served for us at Centotre - catering for a very different crowd. The fact that it is housed in an old building which used to accommodate a bank makes not only for a wide open spaces with a large bar in the centre, but beautiful high stuccoed ceilings and enormous chandeliers. As the name suggests, it is an Italian eatery and you are even treated to a free language course when you visit their toilet facilities... But the main draw are surely their excellent smoothies (see top image: we had a cenerentola with pineapple juice and passion fruit) or big helpings of Bloody Mary as well as their fabulous breakfast offering and Italian snacks - but be aware that their breakfast menu is very limited on Sundays... I still enjoyed my bacon, tomato and fried egg ciabatta, but I was drooling over all the things I couldn't have: their fresh fruit salads, the freshly prepared porridge and fantastic breakfast bruschette. Well, there's always a next time!
And of course, there's a fair amount of shopping to be done - I recommend you save buying haggis and shortbread for the airport, instead, head to the top food shops in town: Harvey Nichols have now opened food halls, but for less commercial and more established shopping heaven visit Valvona & Crolla for all things Italian (they also have a large conservatory in the back where you can enjoy anything from breakfast through to coffee and dinner), Plaisir du Chocolat for some truly scrumptious and beautifully adorned chocolate truffles or, as mentioned on this blog before, if you are urging to buy authentic Mexican ingredients, Lupe Pinto is going to meet all your needs.
If you're after some good Scotch, plan a pit stop at the Scotch Wisky Heritage Centre - their staff are extremely knowledgeable and can advise you if you're trying to find something that can't be bought up and down the country and in every duty free... there's also a fantastic cheese shop, the name of which escapes me - maybe Pille can help out here!
These are but a few recommendations for your next trip to Scotland - there's much more left to explore and if you have tips of your own, don't hesitate to add to the list by leaving a comment below!
Not to forget the tower restaurant on top of the Museum of Scotland with a spectacular view of Edinburgh Castle. Restaurateur is James Thomson (Witchery)
Posted by: muerbchen | Dec 10, 2006 at 05:31 PM
Is the cheese shop you're thinking of the one on Victoria Street (off the Grassmarket)?
Posted by: Alexa | Dec 10, 2006 at 11:13 PM
Dear Johanna!
I hope you feel well. My best wishes are with you.
Martina (Austria)
Posted by: Martina | Dec 11, 2006 at 08:12 AM
Alexa - yes, we went to the Victoria Street branch of Ian Mellis Cheesemonger (Johanna -they've got a website now, too:
http://www.ijmellischeesemonger.com/
And Johanna - it was great to have you over in Edinburgh, and spend the time exploring the city with you. That picture of cenerentola made me drool - it's my very favourite drink in Edinburgh!
So, when are you coming to Estonia? ;)
Posted by: Pille | Dec 11, 2006 at 09:07 AM
oh yes, pille, it was fabulous. thanks again. i can't wait to go to estonia... let me get this baby out and then we'll make a plan. or how about you visiting me when i spend next summer in austria???
Posted by: johanna | Dec 11, 2006 at 11:22 AM
Johanna,
I am amazed at your energy: travelling, writing, cooking and also planning trips! How wonderful!
Posted by: Simonetta | Dec 11, 2006 at 02:13 PM
those smoothies make my mouth water! what a wonderful tips you have for edinburgh, maybe someday i'll go there too.
Posted by: eliza | Dec 11, 2006 at 11:32 PM