Roma... any suggestions?

Not that I expect you to care, but the reason for my long radio silence is that I am going through a rather prolonged period of "unwellness"... don't even ask! Never before has my notoriously good appetite been crushed so thoroughly for so long - I've quite literally had to be force-fed over the last few weeks, so it will come as no surprise that I haven't been doing any cooking, photographing or blogging about food!
The road to my full recovery will lead me to Rome next week - I know most of Italy, but have never, ever, had the opportunity to visit the Eternal City. As with any place of equal attraction and importance, the probability for the unexpecting visitor to drop into a complete tourist trap is obviously very high... and I can think of many better ways to spend my five days than to be eating mediocre food!
So if you have recommendations for restaurants, bars, gelaterias, food shops etc, do please drop me a line... I have tons of guidebooks, but nothing beats first-hand experience of a fellow food afficionado!

Comments

[Sascha F Zeller]

Johanna, I hope you feel better soon! One restaurant in Rome that I will never forget (and it's been 25 years ago, but according to Google it still seems to exist) is: Osteria Alla Cucagna at the Piazza Navona. Try the scallopine with bacon & thyme... If you have time, make sure to stop in Orvieto, just a bit north of Rome.

[martina]

Liebe Johanna!

Ich hoffe, dass es dir wieder gut geht. Ich habe diese Woche deine Site an zwei weitere Menschen aus unserer "Jugend" weitergegeben. Ich hoffe, dass sie auch immer wieder gern hier vorbeischauen.
Stell dir vor Maxl und Kathi haben ein Baby bekommen. Das ist doch toll!!!!
Martina

[Stephanie]

When do you leave? My BIL has been to Rome many, many times (and has played tour guide for my in-laws while there), so I've asked him for some suggestions. I just want to make sure I get them to you before you go!

[Tanna]

Well, you've been missed. I've only eaten in Rome once and it was lovely. But, I'm not much use as I don't remember the name. I'll ask my friend it she does and get back with it to you if I can.
So glad you're feeling better! Don't be doing that one again.

[johanna]

Hi Stephanie, I am leaving on the 8th of June, so there is some time... I would welcome any recommendations - thanks in advance!
Sascha, the Piazza Navona is definitely on my to-do list, thanks for the tip.

[Kate]

I spent a semester in Rome almost 10 years ago, and am DYING to go back. This was before I really became a foodie, cook, etc. so I have to give my recommendations with that bit of a warning. Nonetheless, I would definitely recommend walking around the Campo dei Fiori during the day (open vegetable market, very active, fantastic scene) and then returning at night to observe/partake in the bar scene (the bars themselves are not really anything to write home about, though). It's just amazing how the same piazza is transformed over the 24 hours. In terms of food, I always LOVED Grappolo d'Oro on the Piazza del Cancelloria (right off of the Campo). Looking back, I suspect that the food wasn't as good as I remember, but the old Italian men who tend the place are totally charming, the restaurant itself is cozy and pleasant, and the house wine always made conversations with friends that much more fun. And in terms of gelato, there's a place called Della Palma, which is AMAZING. One more thing, I don't know the name of the bakery where I bought them, but be on the lookout for "Mele in Gabbia" -- the best baked good that I've ever tasted. Finally, in terms of tourist sites, I'm sure you'll hit all of the major ones, but a few tips: 1) it's a little out of the way, but the Villa Borghese is awesome -- the park itself is a great place to wander, read, go jogging (though it gets a bit sketchy at night) and the Galleria Borghese has the most amazing marble sculptures in the 1st floor of the museum, but to get in you have to make an appointment -- it's advisable to call ahead, 2) the tour is worth taking at the Colosseum -- otherwise, it's just a big pile of ruins, and kind of boring, 3)the Pantheon is closed at strange hours of the day, but really try to get inside -- it's worth it and I think that a lot of tourists skip out because they get there and it's closed and they give up, and 4) Piazza Novona is best at night. Ok, that's all -- enjoy your trip!

[Kate]

oh -- one more thing, the Pizzeria Baffetto on the Via del Governo Vecchio (near the Piazza Navona) is really great, and always packed with locals (always a good sign). Show up early if you want a table, and it's cash only (or at least it was 10 years ago)

[Ivonne]

Be sure to have an espresso at La Tazza D'Oro!

[petula]

hi joanna,
I'm petula. I live in milan but I go to rome every week...the best pizzerie are Pizzarium (via della meloria 43) and Sforno (via statilio ottato 110/116 quartiere tuscolano); restaurants: sora margherita (piazza delle cinque scole, 30 quartiere ebraico,)le tre zucche (via mengarini, 43-45).
;-) bon voyage!

[angelika]

Well, after all those great suggestions I feel like going there as well, although I admit it does not need much to persuade me to go to Rome or Italy in general. Johanna, I hope you are feeling better meanwhile and I hope that life now again has much fun and many happy visions in store for you. Do enjoy your trip !

[Stephanie]

Johanna; my BIL is currently putting together a list for you...I'll get it to you as soon as he send it to me.

[Edward]

Johanna - you will have a gorgeous time at this time of year. I've been visiting Rome regularly for years and I think it is actually quite hard (as in most Italy) to find a truly bad meal. I've only had one disappointment. The best lunch I've had in my life was at 'Agate e Romeo' (Via Carlo Alberto 45) - also the most expensive lunch I've ever had, but worth every penny, if you want to splash out and celebrate! My big recommendation is to head out to Via Appia Antica - the old Roman road heading out of the city. It's not far at all - it is possible to walk there. It's now preserved as a park, so looks very countrified and has fantastic atmosphere. Most of the major catacombs are on this road. Right opposite the church and catacombs of San Sebastiano is 'Cecilia Metella' (Via Appia Antica 127/9, South) This is a very reasonable and large restaurant, in the summer I am sure thronged with a fair share of tourists (given its location) BUT serving excellent food and with a marvellous view from the terrace. Very countrified, with a view over treetops to the romantic ruin of Cecilia Metella's grandiose tomb. I was there in the winter, and the majority of diners were very smart locals. Have fun!

[Pille]

Hi Johanna - wish you wonderful time in Rome with lots of heart-warming sunshine and blue skies!
Looking forward to seeing you on the 17th!
PS Sadly, no recommendations on Rome - though I've been to Italy couple of times, then not to Rome. I do know lovely places up in Alto Adige or down in Maratea & Sapri though:)

[Petra]

Hi Johanna...oh Roma what can I say DO NOT MISS going to Panella on Via Merulana 54-55 Tel.06/4872344 or 4872435. An absolutely ffabulous bakery/specialty store. I highly recommend having their Negroni Apertivo - one of the best that I have ever had - and while you sip you can figure out what it is that you are not going to buy.
Cavour 313 is an incredible wine bar on via Cavour 313.
Don't miss Volpetti in Testaccio - their outdoor market is also quite wonderful.
Il Giardino del Te is a wonderful tea emporium - i love their Dolce Vita : via del boschietto 112A Tel: 06/4746888
Have a wonderful trip.
Petra

[Niki]

Hi Johanna, you're probably in Rome right now, but I thought I'd tell you that this post was really useful, as I'll be in Rome in September. I do hope you are feeling better soon.

[Silvia]

Hi I'm a roman and I suggest you: two of the best gelaterias in Rome:
San Crispino: Via della panetteria 42 (near Fontana di Trevi)
http://www.ilgelatodisancrispino.com/
La fata morgana: Via Lago di Lesina, 9/11
For Pizza I agree with Petula: Pizzarium (watch out: it is not a restaurant You will have to eat standing!)
Sforno: excellent, very far from the center but worth it(If you go there just tell Stefano: the pizzaman, that the roman bloggers sent you there! I'll be very happy)

Have a nice stay!

[Amelia]

I hope you are having a fab time and will come back inspired to show us even more gorgeous food. Italian food being my favourite, I can't wait to read all about it. A.x

[ecobabe]

HI Johanna, I hope your trip to Rome has helped you recover and your joi de vivre for food returns ASAP.

Best wishes, Jayne

[Jill]

I only have one gelataria to recommend: San Crispino's near the Trevi Fountain. Wow...I have never had such pure, unadulterated, and scintillating gelato. They have exotic, all natural flavors such as Vanilla Bourbon. But the one sorbet that almost brought me to my knees was Grapefruit. It sounds very dull, but wow! The mixture of honey and grapefruit tasted fresher than any real grapefruit I've ever had. The gelato is so pure that they only serve it in paper cups so they don't hinder the flavor of the gelato with a conetto. The workers there are food snobs though. I asked for Mint Chocolate and the person working there wrinkled their nose as if I was low or something. (They apparently don't make such common flavors)I found it funny. Anyhow, I hope your trip was wonderful.

[Saffron]

hi!Maybe your trip in Rome is over, but if you are still here, I suggest you:
an ice cream at Giolitti, just nearby the Parlamento,Augustariello in Trastevere (typical italian Trattoria).If you look for something trendy and tasty at the same time 'Gusto at Piazza Augusto Imperatore.
For a lunch "Gina" in Piazza di Spagna.
A good coffee at Piazza Sant'Eustachio.And a great "grattachecca" at the kiosk in Isola Tiberina, and....more and more!
Welcome to Rome! Enjoy our "messy"city!

[Melissa]

I hope it's nothing serious, and that you'll soon have your appetite back with full force! Take care, and enjoy Rome.

[Rossella]

Hi from Rome,
i'm living in rome for almost 3 years. Here are my suggestion:
-gelato: Giolitti, closed to Parlamento-Pantheon. The best ice cream in Rome or at the lest the best ice cream+cream (amazing). I go there often for my sunday dinner when I don't want to cook
- pizza. Baffetto (try the appetizer: crostini del cardinale). And if you'd like to go out of the city centre, there's a pizzeria where you can it a special type of calzone, called Camicia (in english: skirt). It's really good
- tea to buy: try this shop. the owner is a gentleman, very charming and honest. He gives you many many advice: http://www.biblioteq.it/?PHPSESSID=3533b1cf7208603120985bc1b8b224be
- tea to drink: the russian tea house closed to Largo argentina-Piazza delle tartarughe. Good teas, charming room, not so expensive (compared to the tea house in Piazza di Spagna), and good cakes
- food to buy: go to Castroni. the first and I think the biggest shop is in via Cola di Rienzo. a lot of food and ingredients from Italy and abroad
I hope not have missed any of my special places

[Natali]

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