Paris restaurant: Georges - top cuisine (not just) for lovers of modern art

When Georges was first recommended to me, I really wasn't sure about this at all. I have been to so many museums in my lifetime and, in need for some sustenance after 5 hours of wandering around (or 3 days, as may be the case in places like the Louvre), resorted to the unthinkable: have lunch in the cafeteria/bar. Invariably, you've got a choice of a dried-out tuna sandwich with a microscopic salad leaf, a helping from a massive soup pot which sports a combination of what had been the "soupe du jour" over the preceding week (who said chorizo, mushroom, pea, haddock and roast red pepper don't go together???) and (if you're ueber-lucky) a bowl of half-wilted salad leaves and chewy, reconstituted chicken-bites without any dressing, accompanied by a brick of a bread roll. Could it really be that this place was different, recommended as a restaurant in its own right, rather than an above-average standard of snacks?
We were very pleasantly surprised with Georges, however. But then, that's because it's not a cafeteria, it's a restaurant in its own right. Located on the very top floor of the Centre Pompidou, with stunning views around town, it was meant to be more than just catering for pit stops in between exhibitions. Since its opening in 2000, it has quickly become a Paris hotspot, drawing crowds of art lovers with a good-sized wallet during the day and in the evening, a colourful crowd of suits, wanna-be models and people who come just for the food (I mean, how odd is that? ;-))
I have to admit it is a real stunner - from the escalators to the entrance, all you can admire is the dramatic setting. After checking your reflection in the black roof-top pool, you come to realise that the views are one thing, but the interior has a lot to say for itself, too. Massive silver-coated amorphous structures, sometimes referred to as ‘blobular aluminum shells’, dominate the scene and are used to create a feeling of intimacy for the tables located in their bright-coloured insides. The setup is very slick and modern - frosted glass tables with a single rose towering 30cm above your head - and so are the staff, boy-oh-boy are they gorgeous, definitely tough competition for all the rich and beautiful clientèle!
The menu is adventurous and cosmopolitan, Thierry Costes (son of celebrity-chef Gilbert Costes) is at the helm of it all and has selected and exciting and unexpected array of dishes - you'll find a foie gras alongside nems and scallop carpaccio, a good selection of vegetarian options (not the easiest to find in Paris, although this is slowly changing) with sautéed mushrooms, soups and various salads. I believe there might be a different, more extensive menu for dinner as well.
We shared a starter of nems (Vietnamese spring rolls) which, to my surprise, had been deep-fried - they were served with their nuoc cham (dipping sauce with soy and chilli) and a glass stuffed with gem lettuce leaves and mint to wrap the nems in. Very nice.
Chris had the afore-mentioned sautéed girolles with a drizzle of garlic cream, simple but effective. I then continued with a carpaccio of scallop where the scallops had been wrapped in a thin slice of fresh salmon before cutting them wafer-thin - again, simply drizzled with lemon juice and olive oil, decorated with a chive... voilà!
Looking around us, we realised that there was an odd mix of French people who'll have a proper lunch, wine and all, whereever they go, and quite a few tables with tourists who'd probably come in expecting cafeteria-style prices but where too embarrassed to leave after studying the menu... invariably, they would opt for the club sandwich, which, at eleven Euro, is one of the cheapest options on the menu and a safe bet if you've come with a big appetite, but a tight budget.
Apparently, you must book if you want to come for dinner and it doesn't surprise me: it's hip, it's happening and it must have the most romantic views at night - I'm definitely coming back on a summer evening one day and book a table outside on the roof terrace... if I weren't already hopelessly in love with Paris, this is where a "coup de foudre" is invitable!

Georges
Centre Pompidou, 6th floor
19, rue Beaubourg
75004 Paris
France
Tel: +33-(0)1 44 78 47 99

Comments

[jenni]

Hi Johanna - did you think the prices were reasonable? We've considered it before but always decided if we're going to pay a premium, we'd rather do so for food than decor - which I agree is stunning - but 11E for the club sandwich doesn't actually sound astronomical in London terms! We've got a trip booked in Feb, so I will be taking notes of your recommendations...

[fernando]

Great review. First "discovered" that place in 2000 and have been back on every subsequent visit to Paris. It is certainly quite hip at night, but even my preference is still to go there for lunch.

[Lil]

funny, this is the second blog post in a week that i read about georges! sounds absolutely wonderful so i guess i ought to head there soon. :)

[johanna]

i didn't feel ripped off at all, i think the value for money was good. especially based on london standards and prices. certain, in paris you will find cheaper places that serve outstanding quality as well, but in a different category. but georges does not compete with a french bistro, it is a stylish, slick, modern affair and the food reflects that 100%!

[keiko]

I love this place too, Johanna :)

[melissa_cookingdiva]

Johanna, I loved your museum report. Hmmm, so let's start making plans for your birthday...I'll bake you a cake and post it in my blog :) You will see..., I'll prepare something you would really enjoy! Hugs,
M

[melissa_cookingdiva]

Johanna, Happy Birthday from Panama! Hope this speciall day is filled with tasty treats and much happiness. Many hugs :)
M

[Meg]

wow, thanks to your review and the one by Laura of Cucina Testa Rossa I now know where I want to go for Valentine's day!!

Thanks for the great review!

[ben]

amazing place, but you'll have too pay for that!