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Jan 25, 2007

Irish Colcannon or What on earth is kale?

Colcannon_portraitAs much as I used to steer clear of British food when we moved over here (not out of fear to see that the prejudices we hold about the islands' culinary traditions on the continent smashed, but more because there is such an abundance and variety of cuisines available in London) I notice myself wanting to find out more about it these days.
This is not to say that I my appetite for exploring exotic restaurants has been forever satisfied, but I do seek out traditional British food and try to re-create it at home every once in a while. So while I keep checking out Vietnamese, Korean and Ethiopian eateries in the capital, I have also picked up a fair amount of recipes for things like Christmas pudding, eccles cakes, spotted dick, toad-in-the-hole and other traditional British fare.
One thing that caught my eye a while ago is colcannon and the perfect occasion to make it came with a delivery of my organic fruit and veg box recently, which contained some kale. I had never seen or heard of this vegetable before (although my Mum insists it goes by the name of "Grünkohl" in German-speaking countries), but knew what I had to do. I picked up a recipe on the net (as you do these days), but then couldn't be bothered to boot my laptop when it came to cooking. I had also been slightly worried about the amount of fat going into the dish - it suggests preparing the potato mash, mixing the kale in, then frying various layers of it in a pan, turning as you add each layer. And while under any other circumstances nothing could appeal to me more than a crisp outer shell and a layer of crisp potato in the middle, I guess I had over-indulged at Christmas and decided to take my complete and utter ignorance with regards to Irish cooking as an excuse for a low-fat alternative. Alternating layers of a simple potato mash and the kale which I first blanched, then sautéed with some garlic, I cheated by making a somewhat healthier, oven-baked version of Colcannon... and let me tell you, I really liked it, authentic or not!

Healthier Irish Colcannon
(serves 6 as an accompaniment or 4 as a light meal)

750 g white potato
50 g butter
125 ml milk
200 g curly kale
1 clove garlic (crushed)

Peel the potatoes and cut into bite-size chunks. Cook in salt water until very tender. Drain and add half of the butter to the pot. Leave to melt, then stir in. Mash the potatoes very finely, then stir in the milk.
Season to taste and set aside.
Cut the kale into strips, then blanch in boiling water for 3 minutes. Drain thoroughly.
Heat the butter in a frying pan, add the garlic and fry until starting to brown. Add the kale and toss carefully.
Pre-heat oven to 175C. Butter an oven-proof dish. Alternate layers of mash and kale, starting with kale and finishing with potato.
Transfer to the oven and bake for 30 minutes.

Serve as an accompaniment to a meat course or on its own, with a salad on the side.

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Comments

You should keep an eye on that kale! Whenever I buy it, I never get through it all. I'm convinced it regenerates in my fridge when I'm not looking! ;)

There's nothing wrong with tweaking a classic recipe to suit you, even though some people get all uptight about it. I think the layering and baking idea sounds really good, especially if you're trying to be healthy.

Oh ja! Grünkohl ist eine typisch norddeutsche Spezialität und in in jeder Region eine heilige Kuh! Wir Schleswig-Holsteiner essen Grünkohl mit Mettwurst, Kassler und Schweinebacke und dazu: Süße Bratkartoffeln!

I think the kids would prefer your delicious looking colcannon!

What is kale? Only the most delicious vegetable ever!! That colcannon looks just lovely, I will have to try it some time. Here are some other kale recipes you might like:

Polenta Lasagna with Feta and Kale
http://glutenfreebay.blogspot.com/2007/01/polenta-lasagna-with-feta-and-kale.html

Eggs and Kale Parmesan (my hands-down favorite)
http://glutenfreebay.blogspot.com/2006/10/eggs-kale-parmesan.html

Love-love-love the
layers-
layers-
layers.

;-)

I've been cooking with kale all week in the Brasserie where I'm working. It's a great alternative to other brassicae of the same family, cabbage, broccoli, cauli and sprouts. Full of flavour and brings real texture to a dish when cooked as you have done in the photo, rather than overcooked to a soggy mush as they so often do in Britain.

Lovely take on colcannon, JOhanna - those layers look both elegant and rustic. Very inviting:)
It's interesting what you're saying about returning to the simple British/Austrian dishes after exploring various exotic cuisines. During my seven years in Scotland I found myself to be increasingly craving and cooking very traditional and simple Estonian fare, too.. Not sure whether it was the age (you become nostalgic once you turn 30?) or just being away from home. I hope it's the latter:)

This looks like such a wonderful dish!

Kale is grünkohl and seems to be a popular traditional vegetable all over Europe. My Bavarian mother-in-law cooks it and in Toscana it is almost everywhere, too! Now I learned it is big on the island as well. A new-old star?

Not having grown up with kale, it's also not something I usually cook with, but being a *huge* fan of all things brassica I think I'm going to have to give it a try. Your version looks wonderful :)

Kale is eaten nearly every sunday in the homes of some southern african americans. a mix of kale and collards is my grandmother's staple which i have adapted by flavoring with panceta rather than bacon.
In a large pan on low heat, steam half a pack of bacon (or panceta) just until it gets juicy. then add a half kale and half collard mix. stir it , then cover with water and boil on medium heat for an hour, maybe a bit longer if needed. -- pretend you're making soup. i usually add a cube or 2 of chicken bouillion.
most of the water will boil away & you're left with a delicious green broth and savory greens.
It's sooo yummy, especially flavored with the panceta, but bacon is good too.

In Holland it's 'boerenkool' (farmers cabbage) and we eat it in a similar dish to colcannon called boerenkoolstamppot.

Basically, peeled potatoes in water, the kale goes on top and then you drain them and mash the two together adding some milk, salt and pepper. Then you eat it with smoked sausage. Yum.

My kids love it and it's full of green stuff and the best part is that they don't care!

I just bought fresh kale this morning at the farmers' market. Now I'll make this wonderful recipe for colcannon. Your kale's brilliant green color is so appetizing in the photo!

Kale plays an important part in feijoada. It's one of the side dishes served with the black beans.

Kale, potatoes, and [optional] pork... a marriage clearly made in heaven and known in many different countries including Portugal, where it is called Caldo Verde and considered a national specialty.

The great thing about kale is that it is such a hardy vegetable that it can continue to thrive in the winter, even after snow has fallen. I still remember having fresh kale right up until the middle of winter from my mom's backyard garden. We would go out to the garden, brush the snow off the kale, and pick just enough for supper.

I don't know if this is true of all the varieties of kale, so look for the hardiest varieties if you plan on supplementing your winter diet with fresh homegrown kale.

Some of the staple Irish root vegetables, such as turnips, can also continue to live in the soil after winter has begun. A second planting of hardy winter vegetables in your home garden can mean you will have fresh vegetables throughout the winter as well as in the summer and fall.

If you're looking for another way to use up all that kale, you could try "kale chips". I make them with 1 Tbsp apple cider vinegar, 1 Tbsp salt, and 3 Tbsp olive oil (I'm told a tablespoon is about 15 grams), and about two bunches kale.

Toss the kale leaves with the mixture, coating all the leaves, then bake in a 350 degree oven (about 175C) for about 20 minutes or until crispy.

I don't want to be nitpicking but Ireland isn't Britain. You seem to use the terms interchangeably.

I would like to be nitpicking... Ireland is part of the British Isles and Northern Ireland is part of the UK or Britain.

(I have heard it argued that I am completely British as my Nan is from Northern Ireland and my grandad was born in Eire before the partition!)

Get over your petty provincialness and comment on the food instead! :P

Nice recipe idea though.. I haven't had any kale in my veg box yet (only the 2nd week) but might try this layered approach with the cabbage I got today.

Thanks :)

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