Wild garlic leaf gnocci (handmade, of course!)

Now, when I went to the Borough Market just before Easter, I couldn't believe my luck. Not only was the whole place deserted (usual opening days are Friday and Saturday, but due to the Good Friday closure, they were open on Thursday - which, seemingly, only I was aware of) which meant that it was completely painless to push Max's pram around (ever tried to negotiate a pushchair, incl. shopping bags hung onto it on either side, through a busy market?) and the shopkeepers really had time to chat and talk about their produce. At Neal's Yard Dairy, we tried about 15 different English cheeses (which the little one adored) and at a newly discovered veggie stall, I found something I hadn't eaten in ages!
Wild garlic (aka garlic leaf and Baerlauch in German) is a herb seldom found - in fact, I remember my parents picking it on walks through the woods, I've never seen it displayed in a shop. It is only available in spring and is often mistaken for meadow saffron, which causes at least 5 deaths a year in Austria alone.
Most of the time, since the yield of a Sunday afternoon stroll is not that great, so my Mum would just slice it thinly and serve it on bread and butter... fresh crusty rye bread, butter, salt and a load of that herb that tastes a bit like chives, only much punchier. Divine.
I could have gone for the easy option and done just that. Instead, I wanted to make some gnocci I had seen in Alastair Hendy's "Cooking for friends". He uses spinach, though, but that shouldn't be the reason for the recipe just being completely impossible. 400 g ricotta and only 1 tbsp of flour and 2 tbsp of semolina? I knew right from the start that that wouldn't work. So I added. Plenty. Until I could actually form a roll as requested without the ricotta going off in all directions. So far so good. Unfortunately, the gnocci were still quite firm inside after cooking them, so I wasn't really that impressed. The taste was great, I really enjoyed the garlic leaves. But in terms of the dough, I'll go for the good old-fashioned potato version next time... that works perfectly every time!

Wild garlic gnocci*
(serves 2 as a starter or light lunch)

40 g garlic leaves
200g  ricotta (excess whey removed)
2 egg yolks (small eggs)
20g freshly grated parmesan cheese
1 tsp plain flour
18 tbsp semolina
salt, freshly ground black pepper
butter
parmesan

Blanch the garlic leaves in boiling water for about 2 minutes, drain, squeeze out any excess water and chop finely.
Combine the ricotta, eggs, flour and parmesan in a bowl. Add semolina until you achieve a smooth, manageable dough. Season. Form 2 cm rolls and cut into 2-3 cm pieces. Drop into boiling salt water and until the gnocci emerge on the surface. Drain and coat with butter, sprinkle with the parmesan before serving.

* based on Alastair Hendy, Cooking for friends", p. 50

Comments

[Owen]

I can't give you a reference, but if you want to try something similar again, find Marcella Hazan's recipe for spinach-ricotta gnocci. I've used it as the basis for other kinds and I've found it to work really well - plus she's just go the BEST home cook italian recipes you could ever hope for..(apart from Alberto at Il Forno of course!)

[Sharon]

A few years ago I'd never heard of Baerlauch but for the past year or two it has been on quite a few menues here in Germany and the ingredient du jour at our friends' homes. It's available at the markets here this time of year but I have the impression it's very seasonable. I'm not a big fan of gnocci, but I have to say yours sound yummy.

[Stephanie]

First, I *do* know what it's like to push a stroller around, laden with shopping bags, through a crowd...sympathy, sister...sympathy!

It's funny; the gnocchi you weren't so crazy about might just be the kind I'd like. So far, I'm just not crazy about gnocchi, mainly because I don't like the soft texture! I even tried making them myself a month or so ago...I just couldn't eat them. Matt loves them, so he get them all to himself!

[keiko]

Hi Johanna, your food is just amazing, I'm so excited about the get-together next month! Could I ask you to make this gnocchi and goulash then...?

[johanna]

You know what, stephanie? While I quite enjoy the softness and fluffiness of traditional gnocci, but I often find the potato flavour over-powering. While I love my potatoes everywhere else, I don’t want them to compete with my gorgonzola sauce… Which is why I tried this recipe. The more I think of it, the more I like them, just would cook then I tiny bit longer next time...

[Kaba]

Just a little note: If there is no Baerlauch (allium ursinum) available, you may try to use chinese chives aka Schnittknoblauch (allium tuberosum) instead. Works fine with many baerlauch recipes, not all of course. Just for a little amount - let's say 40 g - chinese chives will do (available in asia shops, markets)

[Shelby]

Please let me convince you to reconsider this recipe! By mistrusting the recipe's author, you created a dense, doughy dumpling that could not have been very texturally pleasing.

If you had followed the directions (something I never do, either. Your inspiration to add garlic was perfect -- I make ricotta and roast garlic gnocchi) to add just a smidgen of flour, you would have enjoyed the very light and lovely gnocchi also known as gnudi (as in nude ravioli -- the filling without the wrapper). In fact, you do not need to add in flour to the dumplings themselves (if you use spinach, make sure you squeeze it very dry -- I make it ahead and let it dry on the counter. Stick with the plain ricotta and add garlic or herbs); instead, gently roll each one in flour to lightly coat (I roll them back and forth once in a few tablespoons of flour in a pie pan). Cook them in just simmering water (boil them and get exploded gnocchi) until they rise. Remove with a spider or slotted spoon to drain. Now you can plate them with tomato sauce or melted butter, but I like to heat some butter in a skillet to slightly crisp them (or run them under the broiler). Sometimes I dot some tomato sauce on top or toss some pine nuts over them as well. Please try again and post some of your mouth-watering photos.

[johanna]

hi shelby, i guess i should better give them another try... just scared that they'll just disintegrate on me! i will also take your suggestions and hopefully be converted into a semolina-gnocci addict!